Re-discovering Colombia

                      

Gratton on "echale Gratica" 5.13, El Porton, Florian

I´ve heard that Colombia had great climbing, great people, great coffee… and one of the most dangerous spots in South America…

On "ojos de perro azul" 5.13 Florian.

During the “guerrilla” period, several mountain areas were taken, and in most of this areas awesome crags where waiting to be bolted and climb.

Cintia Percivati on La Mojarra

Some of these sectors were already known by local climbers. Some of them continue climbing there despite the good advices not to get there. Creepy stories about kidnap climbers, or big guys carrying big guns jumping out of the jungle to point out a surprise belayer make clear that better not to get there at the time.

But many things had change in the past few years, the “guerrilla” is no longer in the mountains, and the country breaths in peace.

So Colombia change to be one of the most dangerous, to be one of the most friendly, safe and kind places a traveler can possibly know.

 With the mountains free of such scary things, climbers re gains the mountains, re explore, and Re-discover Colombia.

Amazing walls appear, limestone caves, overhanging sandstone, granite cracks, boulder fields…, I mean, pretty much a climbers dream came true.

One of the first area to be re discover were Florian caves.

When Colombian climbers saw this caves they cut not believe it was too good to be true.

So short after, they were organizing a climbing festival to promote the area.

Bouldering on Suta

Florian is a small village surrounded by wonderful nature, waterfalls, jungle and big limestone caves with perfect climbing at only ten minutes from the village!

My girlfriend Cintia Percivati and I were invited to this festival that was sponsor by Red Chili, To open new routes, grade the pre existing, and be part of the climbing festival.

Cintia Percivati

We did not know what to expect, but a free climbing holidays sounds just great, regardless the climbing quality.

But as soon as we saw the caves, we knew we had a lot of work to do, this was serious staff, and we were so lucky to be there to open the lines we want in one of the most amazing formations I ve ever seen.

EL barco Sutatausa

Several new lines where open during the week before the festival. The festival itself consist in two climbing contests on the new routes in one of the caves, were the invited like Us were the judges.

We where one week in the florian area, during that week we heard about other climbing areas recently discover. They really get our attention by saying that we should know the other areas because they were as good as or better than this one. That’s why we change flights and decide to stay longer, and check it out, we were already so amaze!

We leave the lovely village of Florian and it s people making ourselves the promess to come back soon.

After six hours driving, we arrive to “La Mojarra” on La Mesa de los Santos.

Two shots of Eolo's 4th ascent

 This is a much more developed climbing area with already hundreds of routes in exquisite sandstone that reminds Arapiles crags in Australia.

They were right, with different kind of rock and a different kind of climb, this area is as good as or even better than the last one, and this consideration was the same for every new crag we visit!

After “La Mojarra” we visit the classic Suesca, the most developed an old sector in Colombia, and Macheta, also kind of new with incredible sandstone routes, and we finish our trip by bouldering in Sutatausa, an amazing boulder field near Bogota, with a great potential, in a wonderful landscape.

On Sutatausa, great bouldering

I think Colombia will became soon in a sport climbing obligated visit by, just as the best spots in the world.

I want to thank Juan and Johanna Polania for inviting us and for their efforts to improve Colombian climbing. Thanks to Juan David Arenas, for the hospitality and great pictures.